聂启军
设计缺点
Unlimited Fashion｜2021
Depending on the historical context and academic approach, the explanations for changing trends include a wide range of perspectives. Among the main explanations are striving for social distinction, economic gain, sexual allure, personal longing for transformation, a reflection of the current zeitgeist (spirit of the times), and the designer as the catalyst of trends. In this project, based on the research of fashion history from BC to the present, I summarized and analyzed fashion signals in different stages as a kind of speculative evidence of future fashion.
Finally, I explored the possibility of a future fashion business model.
Fashion Formula
I split the timeline into virtual and physical, and the curve represents the percentage of virtual technology used in the fashion industry. So different scenarios emerge under different hypotheses, and I call this curve the fashion formula. What I want to focus on is scenario 2, where both the virtual and the physical exist and maintain a balance. In this scenario, Consumers are willing to get real products as well as virtual goods.
Physical Fashion Production Line
Redesigning supply chains, not just products
There are some changes in the supply chains like ai that helps design and influence brands. and as a tool to assist the on-demand manufacturing model and digital production model. it also uses Blockchain to track and transparent fashion supply chains. And on the retail end, people can still go to a store and buy a T-shirt but it will be a much better experience.
Start With Luxury Brands
How do luxury brands lead the fashion industry?
We know that consumer fashion is now divided into three parts: luxury fashion, high street fashion and industrial fashion which is fast fashion. and there are three motivating factors for luxury brands. The diversification of supply chains, the luxury branding and the craftsmen which is luxury brand deep technology. Therefore, in order to predict the future consumer fashion industry, I focused on handicraft.
Meet with Kelly
Observe a craftsman who has worked in the luxury goods industry for several years
Technical features:
1. Various processes of making latex materials
2. She has her own tools
3. Finger skills
4. Control the amount of glue
5. The degree of inflation can be controlled because of the familiarity with the material
Rich experience in Dior
Specialist Technical Instructor in Fashion Pattern Cutting
I have an interview with Kelly who has rich experience in Dior. She is an expert in pattern-cutting and latex garments area. I observed her working process. Many skills I don’t know like finger skills, glue control and DIY tools. So I wanna know how can I copy or learn quickly her processor skills.
I made some tools for prototypes, such as work gloves, a glue tool with a sensor to catch the glue flowing, and a tabletop with a pressure sensor. I then used motion capture and some pressure sensors to test how to record the craftsman's work. In the future, I suspect there will be more precise techniques to capture and record the crafting process.
What if this kind of kit is used extensively to capture the crafting process?
A Fictional Story About Danni
Trouble from a 2030s craftsman
Danny is an independent Nuno craftsman who has been making wool felt fabric for fashion brands for more than 20 years from China.
Danny’s troubles:
1. Whether to force children to pass on her skills
2. Family pressure
3. Uncertainty of the future: Maybe abandoned by the fashion industry at any time
4. Not getting enough respect
5. Financial pressure
Business Model
NFT is used to package craftsmen's skills and values, so that consumers can buy the right of production
These specific kits let me create this business model, basically, the craftsmen or independent creators use the kits to capture and record the skills or process of making some object, And then upload it to the blockchain. Consumers buy blockchain to acquire production rights, and use other service providers to produce physical and virtual products that are unique and interconnected.
VISION OF THE MODEL
This model not only provides a favourable environment for creators but also expands the market for the fashion industry
Why are craftsmen so important?
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Craftsmanship is the lifeblood, value, story and culture of luxury goods
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The more artisans come into contact with consumers, the more consumers will attach importance to the historicity and authenticity of handicrafts, which is conducive to building consumer loyalty to handicrafts
-
The fast-paced, mechanized fashion industry presents a huge challenge to rival crafts
-
There are millions of skilled craftsmen in the global market, rivalling even the masters of Europe
How does this mode benefit craftsmen?
-
Different social respect, especially for non-European artisans or independent creators
-
Whether you're signing on with a brand or developing as an indie, it's good for your revenue
-
Don't worry about your skills being passed down; store them all in data and encrypt them
-
Provides intellectual property protection for the process
What does the creator community offer?
-
Let creators focus on their craft without regard to other factors when it comes to innovation, implementation, sales, and logistical support.
-
Connect online experiences, virtual identities and the real world through unique skills and brand experiences designed, curated and owned by communities.
-
Able to control product channels and make suggestions for product launch
What is the NFT that consumers are buying?
-
It is generally a right to produce
-
It includes the craftsman/creator's craft, skills, product creation process, material, pattern, texture and other elements of the product. It can be used as a parent NFT, which divides the details and steps into several sub-NFT and charges user fees for each part, thus making the craftsman/creator profitable
-
Physical and digital products can be carried out through other suppliers
-
Consumers can match the final physical and virtual clothing. Each physical item will have its specific number and related metadata, so that it can be linked to NFT and virtual objects, realizing the dual application of the physical world and virtual world
What is the impact on virtual fashion?
-
It helps to build distribution channels and content supply chains that allow work to be shown on different platforms
-
Virtual service providers can quickly respond to consumer needs with modular NFT.
-
In addition to verifying the authenticity of goods, crypto-assets can truly bring the fashion industry online, allowing consumers to present themselves in a variety of mutually compatible and intertwined virtual universes
What is the impact on physics fashion?
-
Promote the development of a digital intelligent manufacturing platform
-
Scale production on demand, reduce waste and cost
-
The brand can improve production efficiency
-
Help the brand to find more talents to develop different product lines and markets
Why are craftsmen so important?
-
Craftsmanship is the lifeblood, value, story and culture of luxury goods
-
The more artisans come into contact with consumers, the more consumers will attach importance to the historicity and authenticity of handicrafts, which is conducive to building consumer loyalty to handicrafts
-
The fast-paced, mechanized fashion industry presents a huge challenge to rival crafts
-
There are millions of skilled craftsmen in the global market, rivalling even the masters of Europe
How does this mode benefit craftsmen?
-
Different social respect, especially for non-European artisans or independent creators
-
Whether you're signing on with a brand or developing as an indie, it's good for your revenue
-
Don't worry about your skills being passed down; store them all in data and encrypt them
-
Provides intellectual property protection for the process
What does the creator community offer?
-
Let creators focus on their craft without regard to other factors when it comes to innovation, implementation, sales, and logistical support.
-
Connect online experiences, virtual identities and the real world through unique skills and brand experiences designed, curated and owned by communities.
-
Able to control product channels and make suggestions for product launch
What is the NFT that consumers are buying?
-
It is generally a right to produce
-
It includes the craftsman/creator's craft, skills, product creation process, material, pattern, texture and other elements of the product. It can be used as a parent NFT, which divides the details and steps into several sub-NFT and charges user fees for each part, thus making the craftsman/creator profitable
-
Physical and digital products can be carried out through other suppliers
-
Consumers can match the final physical and virtual clothing. Each physical item will have its specific number and related metadata, so that it can be linked to NFT and virtual objects, realizing the dual application of the physical world and virtual world
What is the impact on virtual fashion?
-
It helps to build distribution channels and content supply chains that allow work to be shown on different platforms
-
Virtual service providers can quickly respond to consumer needs with modular NFT.
-
In addition to verifying the authenticity of goods, crypto-assets can truly bring the fashion industry online, allowing consumers to present themselves in a variety of mutually compatible and intertwined virtual universes
What is the impact on physics fashion?
-
Promote the development of a digital intelligent manufacturing platform
-
Scale production on demand, reduce waste and cost
-
The brand can improve production efficiency
-
Help the brand to find more talents to develop different product lines and markets
Speculative Design
As an independent craftsman, Danny uploaded her work to the blockchain and sold it as NFT. However, each NFT is not only her production steps and methods but also can be divided into many sub-NFT. In this way, some consumers can only buy the partial method of one work or the partial production steps of several different works to find a factory for production.
Danny uploaded the process of making pink cow Nuno felting fabric to NFT. After the consumer bought it, he found a manufacturer to cooperate with him to help produce it.
This is a shirt with Nuno felting craft made by QJ MANUFACTURE LTD. It exists in both the real world and the virtual world and is unique. What makes it special is that this fabric comes from Master Danny, who has been making wool felt for decades.
